This course will cover formulation of small amplitude waves and its properties. First, we will solve the potential flow problem with linearized boundary conditions in order to get solution for velocity potential. Then, we will discuss the dispersion relation which is of central importance in water waves, since it clearly shows the close relationship between wave celerity and frequency. Finally, we will learn physical properties of the water waves; 1) velocity field and pressure field; 2) wave energy; 3) group velocity and; 4) wave shoaling.
Week 1. Review of Fluid dynamics
Week 2. Linear wave theory: governing equation and boundary conditions